Today, Girard-Perregaux released a long-awaited revival of the Deep Diver. There has been no Diver watch in the catalogue since the discontinuation of the Sea Hawk line, which I need to check but is probably close to 10 years. The last Sea Hawk III was quite bulky and bold, not your average taste (search the Blog if you want to take a look). The new Deep Diver is reminiscent of the Deep Diver 9108 which came out at the very end of the 60s, already sporting a 70s funky design.
Girard-Perregaux now calls this a “legacy edition” and I think the new Deep Diver fits into the same drawer as the Casquette 2.0, the funky LED watch. Despite some small adjustments, these watches are really remakes of its vintage predecessors. Similar approach was taken for example by Omega with its Trilogy of Seamaster, Railmaster and Speedmaster. You could argue that this is the easy route and I would agree.
A different approach GP took in the 90s with its “vintage” line of watches. Those watches were “inspired” by their vintage designs but not a copy. GP went through great efforts redesigning the “vintage” collection giving them a modern look while keeping the vintage design elements. Vacheron takes a similar approach with its Les Historique collection. For me this is the route a maison haute horlogerie should take, but I’m being picky.
Vintage 1994: the very first release of the “Vintage” Collection from 1994
The new Deep Diver as I mentioned is a remake of the Deep Diver 9108. You can search here for that Reference number and find some previous posts. The actual role model for the new Deep Diver was a 9108 with red dial and original bracelet. Luckily, I took a few pictures of it as I may just had a little contribution to make that reissued Deep Diver happen.
The original 9108 red dial with bracelet that served as role model
Also pretty in turquoise dial
Large wrist presence, funky cool 70s
The most obvious differences are the colours. Instead of black the new switches it to dark blue and the red has more turned into orange. The metal bracelet had to make way for a rubber strap with a similar bracelet design. The problem with remaking vintage models is that the vintage model will always beat the remake. It is quite different when taking the other approach as with the GP Vintage collection or Vacheron Les Historiques. In that case, both are very enticing offers. It does not really need to be a big issue as you will have a difficult time finding a vintage Deep Diver 9108 and even if you find one, I would not suggest taking it into the water.
Press photo Girard-Perregaux
What I don’t like? Why cooperate with Bamford? I know the first Lt. Edition of the Casquette was also a Bamford release, but for me, they add no value here. GP’s heritage is so much stronger, there is no need to put another brand on the package. I’m also not sure I like the orange-coloured lume on dial and hands. When you compare it with the original, you hopefully see what I mean. Finally, the price is going in the wrong direction. A new Diver watch should target a younger clientale that come new to the brand and as years go by explore some more complicated and more expensive models from GP. However, with the asking price you will continue to lose those first-time watch buyers to the Omega’s or Tudor’s of this world. It is probably a missed opportunity.
Today, Girard-Perregaux released a long-awaited revival of the Deep Diver. There has been no Diver watch in the catalogue since the discontinuation of the Sea Hawk line, which I need to check but is probably close to 10 years. The last Sea Hawk III was quite bulky and bold, not your average taste (search the Blog if you want to take a look). The new Deep Diver is reminiscent of the Deep Diver 9108 which came out at the very end of the 60s, already sporting a 70s funky design.
Girard-Perregaux now calls this a “legacy edition” and I think the new Deep Diver fits into the same drawer as the Casquette 2.0, the funky LED watch. Despite some small adjustments, these watches are really remakes of its vintage predecessors. Similar approach was taken for example by Omega with its Trilogy of Seamaster, Railmaster and Speedmaster. You could argue that this is the easy route and I would agree.
A different approach GP took in the 90s with its “vintage” line of watches. Those watches were “inspired” by their vintage designs but not a copy. GP went through great efforts redesigning the “vintage” collection giving them a modern look while keeping the vintage design elements. Vacheron takes a similar approach with its Les Historique collection. For me this is the route a maison haute horlogerie should take, but I’m being picky.
The new Deep Diver as I mentioned is a remake of the Deep Diver 9108. You can search here for that Reference number and find some previous posts. The actual role model for the new Deep Diver was a 9108 with red dial and original bracelet. Luckily, I took a few pictures of it as I may just had a little contribution to make that reissued Deep Diver happen.
The most obvious differences are the colours. Instead of black the new switches it to dark blue and the red has more turned into orange. The metal bracelet had to make way for a rubber strap with a similar bracelet design. The problem with remaking vintage models is that the vintage model will always beat the remake. It is quite different when taking the other approach as with the GP Vintage collection or Vacheron Les Historiques. In that case, both are very enticing offers. It does not really need to be a big issue as you will have a difficult time finding a vintage Deep Diver 9108 and even if you find one, I would not suggest taking it into the water.
What I don’t like? Why cooperate with Bamford? I know the first Lt. Edition of the Casquette was also a Bamford release, but for me, they add no value here. GP’s heritage is so much stronger, there is no need to put another brand on the package. I’m also not sure I like the orange-coloured lume on dial and hands. When you compare it with the original, you hopefully see what I mean. Finally, the price is going in the wrong direction. A new Diver watch should target a younger clientale that come new to the brand and as years go by explore some more complicated and more expensive models from GP. However, with the asking price you will continue to lose those first-time watch buyers to the Omega’s or Tudor’s of this world. It is probably a missed opportunity.
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